segunda-feira, março 26, 2012

Frivolidades ou "coisas de gajo" - "dress codes" (12). Meias

Usar meias da mesma cor (ou tom) das calças é o que vemos e lemos em todos os manuais de roupa para "gajo": cinzentas para fatos cinzentos, azuis escuras para fatos da mesma cor e castanhas para fatos "beije", aqueles de Verão. Ah!, claro, também azuis escuras ou cinzentas para os "mil raias" de verão, de cores semelhantes. Ok, isto é "o dado", mas não será demasiado "toujours la même chose", isto é, tem de ser mesmo assim?  Claro que não.

Por exemplo, e cingindo-nos por enquanto aos fatos, é não só absolutamente aceitável como um pouco mais criativo usar meias azuis escuras com fato cinzento desde que se esteja a usar uma camisa azul-clara (ou sendo esta cor a dominante) com uma gravata a condizer. E se usar um lenço de bolso onde predominem cores semelhantes (mas nunca igual à gravata), melhor fica. Ou seja: sendo o cinzento uma cor neutra é possível "construir" uma outra cor dominante combinando camisa, gravata e meias azuis. O mesmo se pode dizer quando falamos de uma camisa verde-clara, lisa ou de riscas. Ou, outra hipótese ainda, cor de rosa ou com riscas "bordeaux", nestes casos combinando com meias também "bordeaux" e, considerando a hipótese de o fato ser suficientemente informal (flanela cinzenta, por exemplo) para o permitir, sapatos também dessa mesma cor. Mas, claro, estas excepções não se aplicam quando a camisa é branca ou "beije".

Já com "blazer" e casacos de "tweed", que permitem "pullovers" ou "cardigans" de lã por debaixo do casaco, a questão é bem outra. Digamos que sem "pullover" ou "cardigan", é melhor seguir uma regra básica: se estivermos a usar calças cinzentas de flanela ou sarja, meias cinzentas ou da cor dominante do casaco, embora no caso dos "tweeds" "pied de poule" ("houndstooth") ou "shepherd's check", por exemplo, combinar camisa, gravata e meias com uma das cores do casaco, mesmo que a não dominante, seja também interessante. Se vestirmos um "pullover ou cardigan", é não só bem possível como fica bastante bem usar meias da mesma cor, mesmo que estas sejam encarnadas, amarelas, verde alface e assim sucessivamente. Isto para meias de cor uniforme, já que com meias "argyle", mais adequadas a "tweed" do que a "blazer", mais interessantes com calças de bombazina do que de flanela ou sarja, o melhor é dar largas à imaginação e ao bom gosto, desde que, no fim do dia, tudo combine. Confuso? Olhe que não, olhe que não...

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